No such thing as a free lunch....
dealing with pushy dominant dogs
(a.k.a. Malamutes!)
Shadow and Superman who helped write the book on pushy!
Malamutes, being a pushy, dominant breed can often benefit from what trainers call "No Such Thing as a Free Lunch" training. It's a system you can incorporate into everyday life and is very helpful in getting a problem dog under control. It's a non-confrontational system of rewards that puts YOU, the owner in control of the dog's actions. It's privileges based on the dog's behavior and lets the dog know who is alpha without "alpha rolls" or "pinning" - two increasingly outdated methods of dealing with dominant dogs since aggression begets aggression. "Free Lunch" is a method of rank clarification for a confused dog. It can make a big difference with any Malamute, but particularly pushy dominant ones. It also helps keep control with multiple dogs. How it works is this: nothing the dog does is "free", they must do something to earn it. It's based on pack behavior and how alpha dogs use mind games to get what they want and assert rank issues. Higher ranked dogs get to sleep where they want, eat what they want, go where they want, and the lower ranked dogs just have to cope. This is all very natural to a dog, and comforting at the same time because they know someone is in control. One way is taking away the dog's free movement around the house. We use baby gates, doors and "stays" to keep them from congregating in groups that could quickly get out of control. Malamutes in a group don't listen and tension is increased. To increase control (and lessen a chance of fights) we control where they are, which other dogs they hang out with, and when. They see nothing wrong with this and generally accept it without question. It's helpful if you are having dominance problems with your dog and is also useful at increasing your "alpha" status with any Malamute.
Lock
the doggie door if there is one. When you remove the ability to go in
and out at will, this can be a big help with many dogs. They become dependent
on YOU to control their environment which improves your alpha status.
They have to ask YOU. It's not necessary if you aren't having any problems,
but with a dog (or group of dogs) with issues, it can be a big help. Once
the problem is under control for about six months, then you can reopen the door
if you wish.
Keep
the dog off the bed and furniture. Malamutes are very aware of who gets
to sleep where. Dogs with alpha wannabe problems are often more likely
to throw a fit or growl over being removed from the bed and furniture.
This includes allowing the dog to sleep on the bed with you at night.
If your dog hesitates when you tell him to get off, you have a problem starting
so be careful what you allow to begin with.
Take
over the dog's space by requiring the dog to move for the owner rather than
reverse. Dogs in need of rank clarification get used to controlling the
owner's movement by lying in the doorway or major traffic areas. It's
a "control thing" they do. Be aware of this and require the
dog to move for YOU instead of stepping over him. It's also good to get
him used to having children make him move to avoid issues if the day comes you
have toddlers in the house. Dogs used to making their owners move are
more likely to snap at a toddler that falls on them accidentally. "MOVE"
is the most respected command in our house!
Tethering
the dog to the owner for a period of time - the bigger the problem, the more
time the dog should spend tethered to the owner. You can do this by taking
the dog's leash and running it through a belt loop. The dog has to follow
the owner everywhere, which is good practice for Malamutes. Moms - this one
is for you - tether that puppy when you are zooming around cleaning house while
the baby sleeps - easy training and instant respect!
Make
the dog wait before allowing him through a door. If you must, tell him
to sit until released. (I'm usually satisfied as long as they 'pause'
for direction, but with a pushy dog, you might want to make them sit first).
This is also a safety rule - dogs should NEVER run out the door without first
getting your permission. Again, if you are going out with your dog, it's
preferable that you go out the door first.
Occasionally
take over the dog's space by deliberately moving the dog when asleep at some
point and then occupying that spot for a few minutes. This happens often
with the pack - Star will decide she wants a "spot" and it becomes
very clear she wants it with just a look. Being Malamutes they will take
their time evacuating the preferred place, but she doesn't have to do a thing
- just look. They know and the young dog is unceremoniously evicted.
One thing our guys do is lay against an interior door. You try to open
the door and a dog is barricading the other side. We tell them "MOVE"
and push the door open hard anyway - they get the point and get out of the way
so we can come through. We should NOT have to shimmy through because the
dog is there! It's not just the view or a draft they're enjoying - it's
the power over the other dogs of knowing FIRST which human or dog is coming
through the door and possibly challenging that movement.
Take
control of the dog's use of the yard. If territoriality is a root issue,
take control of when the dog gets to go in and out of the yard, how they use
the yard and especially how LONG they get to use it. Have the dog on a
regular feeding schedule so you'll know generally when he needs to urinate so
that if the dog indicates it wants out, you can evaluate whether it's a need
to urinate or just a need to chase squirrels and hunt mice in his territory.
By how long means you don't just let the dog hang around outside indefinitely.
YOU decide how long to let him play outside - for 15 minutes, an hour, or whatever
you wish, then make him come in. It's not his choice when to come in.
Try not to participate in any delay games either (not always easy with a Malamute!)
- often an intermittent reward for coming immediately (cookie, carrot or other
treat) is helpful. I give certain dogs a treat when they drop what they're
doing and come really fast. If they dawdle, sorry no treat! Also,
have rules about what is appropriate activity in the yard. Fence fighting,
eating poop, and digging are definite no no's at our house and will not be allowed
(they are brought in IMMEDIATELY and know we are not happy). You need to make
your own rules about what is allowed. (Sorry, but hunting and killing
small animals is part of the Malamute psyche so you can try to disallow it with
your obvious displeasure, but odds are it won't work...)
When
you take the dog visiting, teach the dog to wait for permission before exploring
the new environment. This is a very common thing for pushy dogs - their
owners are trained to allow them to explore a new park, house, backyard at will.
When
the dog gets the special privilege of "hanging out with you", perhaps
in the front unfenced yard while you garden or at a dog-friendly beach or park
- ALWAYS tether the dog to yourself or tie his leash to a fencepost. Do
NOT rely on obedience training or the fact that he's always been "good"
about staying by you. This is a Malamute, and all it will take is one
bunny or another female and your dog will take off before you can react, possibly
fighting and killing another dog or getting hit by a car. Don't risk it!!!
Also, tethering in this circumstance lets your dog know he is not responsible
for "protecting" the entire neighborhood from stray dogs and squirrels.
His job is to be near you, nothing more.
Take
control of your dog's exercise. Exercise should happen under the owner's
supervision and with the owner's permission. (OK, you can watch them body slam
each other playing in the backyard through the window, but only if you are supervising...).
Alpha dogs will often get upset with the younger ones that play rough and hard
without their permission - you should too! If the dog is very active and
"goes nuts" because he misses a day of usual exercise, it's an indication
the owner is using management through exhaustion to cover up problems, or the
dog is totally alien to the concept of getting permission.
Downs
are great for mealtimes or when you're snacking in front of the TV. First
teach the dog down on cue (using treats) so it knows what a down is. Once
the dog understands what you want, make the Malamute go into a down position
if it wants to
beg and mooch food. This includes when it wants to beg from children!!! Have the kids help you teach the dog down so they can benefit from this too. Ignore and reject barking, pawing or other attention getting behavior. They only get a tidbit if you allow that (and I mean a really tiny one) AFTER they have been quiet and down for a reasonable period of time. Better yet, teach them to wait until you are finished. OK, only the really good trainers that aren't a soft touch can do that (I'm not), but it's a lofty goal we can all strive for!
Use
baby gates and doors to allow the dog into certain rooms at certain times.
If you are busy and don't want to be pestered put a baby gate at the door to
keep the dog out. I'm not saying permanently confine the dog to certain
areas of the house - or always lock them out of certain rooms - but to temporarily
keep them out of a room because a door is shut is good practice and a good use
of your alpha role. (Don't let a pushy dog wear you down by scratching
to come in or barking! That is still one of Shadow's problem areas - he
HATES being locked out of a room.) Dogs do not need free access all the
time to everything, including outdoors.
Accessibility
can also be used to your advantage when you have two dogs or two bitches that
are not fond of each other but it hasn't escalated to true hate. Some
same-sex aggression in Malamutes is unavoidable and some gets out of control
pretty quickly - then the only solution is permanently keeping them apart.
However, sometimes if it's not severe you can keep control if you limit access
to certain areas that cause conflict (like the kitchen) or when you are not
actually in the room with the aggressors. This can work for dogs that
are very reactive but can get along most of the time. (in other words,
they like each other enough until a crumb falls between them - then it's an
instant fight). An example is how we handled Star and Nova or when Holly
decided she didn't like elderly Penny and was looking for opportunities to "get
her". If we went to another part of the house, we would casually
put a baby gate or close a door between, limiting which rooms they could leave
or enter. That way, they were never unsupervised right next to each other
to act out their dislike. I don't know if it would work as well if it
were a mutual dislike situation. Don't allow them the freedom of movement
to bully. Limiting access can take a difficult situation and make it work
satisfactorily.
If
the dog is accustomed to "asking" for a walk, treat, special privilege
at certain times of the day - make him work for it - don't let him demand it.
Shadow barks loud and obnoxiously bouncing around acting like a goofus demanding
rather than asking to go for a walk in the evening. We make him sit and
be quiet for a short time (no barking) before we will "reward" him
with what he asked for. If he keeps barking, we ignore him and wait until
he settles down and does his quiet puppy wiggle to ask. THEN he gets his
walk.
Restrict
where he can play or keep his toys. We don't allow inside toys to go out,
and visa versa.
No Free Lunch is a wonderful training method that uses positive reinforcement, is not confrontational and therefore works well with pushy, aggressive dogs or even dogs that are just a little too spoiled and used to getting their own way. In other words, MOST Malamutes!